Over three weeks ago I was lying in my bed at Aria, livid and contemplating writing this blog as the turmoil unfolded around me. Instead, I decided to sleep on it (for three weeks) to ultimately deliver a more sound, level-headed evaluation of my Las Vegas City Center experience. Verdict: little has changed – City Center is a disaster.
It’s January 2010; I find myself prancing around the office bragging about my recently booked room at Aria at $175/night for March Madness opening weekend. I love the fact that amongst my peers I will be first to experience the 4,000+ room centerpiece at the center of the strip (hence the name City Center).
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As a quick reference, City Center, the largest private development investment in the U.S. by MGM and Dubai World, is an entire city block located between the Bellagio and Monte Carlo. City Center is nearly complete, encompassing the 4,004 room Aria hotel/casino, the 1,495 unit Vdara condo-hotel, 392-room/224-unit Mandarin Oriental condo hotel, the twin 37-story Veer Towers condo buildings, the 500,000 SF Crystals shopping/entertainment center, and the yet-to-debut 400-room Harmon Hotel.
The Harmon Hotel has been plagued with structural deficiencies. The proposed 49-story building has been shrunk down to 28 stories and mechanic leans on the building have severely delayed the project. If it should ever open, it will be managed my The Light Group, one of Vegas’ most renowned restaurant operators but with no hotel background. This may prove to be a blog post of its own.
From the time City Center broke ground, it was destined for doom. Six deaths have occurred since construction began. In 2008, construction workers shut down and walked off the site to protest safety conditions at the project.
How about the cost. The $11 billion investment thus far has almost tripled the initial budget of $4 billion. In 2009, JV partners MGM and Dubai World had seemed ready to go to war when Dubai World sued MGM for breach of contract. Despite a work-out that ensured the completion of City Center, Dubai World had other issues to face. Dubai World has nearly $60 billion in liabilities and is in the process of trying to restructure about $22 billion in debt.
Dubai World may be the poster child for extravagant, unsound hotel investment at the height of the market. In 2006 and 2007, Dubai World scooped up some of the most expensive hotels in the country including the Fountainbleu Miami and prime assets in Manhattan and DC. In the trailing 5 months however, Isthamar, the private investment arm of Dubai World, has had to hand back the keys to both the W Union Square and former Knickerbocker Hotel in Manhattan.
City Center has only sold 25 of its 2,400 condominium units since sales began closing at the end of January. Of those units, 9 were at Mandarin Oriental and six were at Vdara. However, $24 million was forfeited to City Center in residential deposits. The inability of City Center to sell the residential units has resulted in an expected operating loss of $255 million for the first quarter 2010.
This year, Aria has achieved an ADR of $195 at 63% occupancy. Can we expect more from Aria? Not unless the property solves their many operational miscues.
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I’ve just landed in Vegas and in the cab to Aria. In typical fashion, I strike up a conversation with the Vegas cabby on a number of topics but most notably City Center. When he asked me what I thought, I fed him much off the same hoopla I just rattled off in this blog. In response, I received an assessment much wiser and more telling than my research on debt figures and body counts. He said, “If the guest can’t turn on the lights, the hotel will fail.” Little did I know.
I arrive to the eye candy of Aria; waterfalls, intricate art, vast open spaces, and pleasant fragrances being pumped into the air. The allure quickly wears off as I find myself 10-deep in line to check in. Granted it’s one of the busiest weekends of the year, but they only have half the check-in windows open. After roughly 30 minutes of waiting, clearly held up by disgruntled guests ahead of me, I am greeted to a relatively quick and painless check-in.
I head through the casino and to the elevator, up thirty-some floors and to my destination. With only one set of elevators at the center of the building, I quickly realize it is a 200-yard trek to either end. A housekeeper guides me to my room. Upon entering, I see the room only has one king bed; this is not going to work as I am staying with one other.
Another half mile walk, 30 minutes in line and I’m back at the front desk. When I told the agent I requested two queen beds, the response was less than well received. “All we have left is king-bed rooms.” I know you’re thinking, “haven’t you shared a bed before? Get over it!” To you I say, “see how willing you are to share a bed with an intoxicated 250 pound man when you get back at 7 am from Drai’s After Hours.”
So after some calling around to see what the other MGM properties had to offer in way of 2-Queens, we are still at square one. Surprisingly, the Mandarin Oriental offers two-doubles. You would think at that price comes bigger beds. The agent steps away to talk to his manager and comes back offering me a one-bedroom suite. Still it has a one king bed but he puts in a request for a roll-away.
When I get back to the room, and this is no exaggeration, I spend 40 minutes figuring out the technology: 10 minutes figuring out the lights and automated curtains, 10 minutes turning on the TV to put on the game, 10 minutes trying to figure out the touch-screen room controller, and the rest admiring the heated toilet/beday. The toilet is fantastic but the rest of the gadgetry is highly inefficient. The wall switches are incredibly delayed, as is the remote control. And at some points, pushing buttons simply does nothing. This is when I understand the enlightenment of the cabby.
Later on that evening, I stopped by the front desk and pleasantly let the manager know that we were still awaiting the roll-away. Two hours later, we are exhausted and ready for bed but still awaiting the roll-away. When the phone agent returned my call, this time the response was far beyond not well received. “We are all out of roll-aways.” It’s 2 am, my brother is curled up in a ball on the rock-hard love seat, and in a somber whisper asks, “can I just have a pillow and blanket?” Problem is, the rooms have no extra pillows nor blankets! The phone agent apologetically insists that they will be delivered immediately.
Back to wear we started. I am lying in bed, brainstorming this very blog post. It is 45 minutes later and still no pillow nor blanket. Time for bed. I turn to hit the “Goodnight” button. The TV turns on, loud waterfalls start echoing from the speakers, the curtains are opening and closing and lights turning on and off. I officially hate Aria.
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The more optimistic part of me thinks that Aria has much to offer. The public space is very well-done and inviting, the restaurants are top-notch, and at the end of the stay, they kindly refunded a good portion of the cost without asking. But again, going back to my original Vegas Baby, Vegas? post, stick to what you’re good at. The Bellagio is the benchmark for fine hotels/casinos in Vegas and as it turns out, is operated by MGM. Although it doesn’t have the technology of Aria (tube TVs still in many of the rooms), guests keep coming back because it is operationally spot-on.
I wish the best for Dubai World and MGM with City Center, but as a wise cabby once said, “If the guest can’t turn on the lights, the hotel will fail.”
-Mike Kitchen